Here we go again…

Calamity Jane is broody again

Calamity Jane is broody again

It’s Spring and Calamity Jane is broody again.  Apparently this is her thing.  None of the other 6 hens has shown an interest in sitting 24/7 in the nest box, waiting for chicks to magically appear beneath her.

My initial reaction was utter disappointment.  I thought (very pragmatically): “I’ll have to find a home for her”.  And then the reality bubble burst and I decided: “…or I can let her raise chicks again!!  Cause that’ll be adorable!!”  Oh dear.  It’s a disease.

So here we go again.  This morning I purchased a dozen mixed fertilized eggs from The Bradley Farm near my work in Puyallup, WA.  They set me up with 2 lavender orpingtons (remember George?), two salmon faverolles, one light sussex, one partridge chantecler, two blue orpington, two blue-laced red wyandottes (like Rooroo and Little Sister), and two Marans – one black copper and one white.

The dozen fertile eggs from The Bradley Farm

The dozen fertile eggs from The Bradley Farm

I got CJ set up in the broody box this evening, with enough time to get comfortable on the eggs before dusk fully descended.  Good thing too because, as per 2012, she only managed to pull two or three of the eggs underneath her before settling into the corner.  Also as per 2012 I just shoved the rest underneath her, though I didn’t fret about it this time.

It was only after all was said and done that I remembered my plan this year was to stick day-old chicks under CJ if she went broody again.  Oops.

Posted in baby chickens, broody hen, chickens, eggs, spring | 7 Comments

Making Bacon Soap

Bacon
We eat a lot of bacon. Even our vegetarian meals tend to have a strip of bacon. And I save every drop of grease. How could I not? I grew up with a mug of bacon grease in the fridge for frying eggs in the morning. This was ironic because we otherwise avoided animal fats (the fat-free craze was gaining speed at that time). Instead we used Imperial Margarine (Canada’s premier butter-substitute) for baking and ‘buttering’. Except for potatoes and popcorn – those were butter. I guess my parents just made this stuff up as they went a long.

The margarine of my youth

The margarine of my youth

And apparently I follow in their footsteps, making stuff up as I go along based on the information available to me. I bake and spread butter, I fry coconut or olive or peanut oil. I eat lots of ‘healthy fats’ (i.e., avocados, nuts). But I never use the bacon grease.

For a few years I wanted to use beef fat to make soap. I had been making cold process soaps for a few years, always using plant oils. I inquired at a few deli/butcher counters for beef fat – which makes a hard, white soap, clean soap. But no-go. I gave up.

Meanwhile, the bacon grease continued to build up in the kitchen. And in the garage. Random yoghurt and ice cream containers stacked in corners, leaking. Occasionally I would relent and throw them out.

It finally occurred to me to make soap from the bacon grease. Duh! Except that I didn’t know how. Gods bless the Internets. Just a little bit of searching and I found a saponification value for bacon fat (the g/g ratio of lye needed to neutralize and convert particular fatty acids into soap molecules) and instructions on preparing the oil.

BUT!  Just because I knew how didn’t mean I was ready to start – no, no, no! That is not how perfectionist procratinators proceed! I had to wait until Scott said ‘Enough – do something with these or I am throwing them out’. At last I could leap into action.

Can full of bacon grease ready to melt

Can full of bacon grease ready to melt

The first step was to clean the fat. Anyone who makes bacon understands that bacon grease is ‘dirty’.  It is full of crunch black bits and stinks. You don’t just want to throw that stuff into soap. So I started cleaning the grease.

Melted, bacon grease turns dark and transparent

Melted, bacon grease turns dark and transparent

Step 1: Pour the melted bacon grease into the water and boil with salt (this instruction comes back to haunt me)
This steps produces the first miraculous transformation. I let the mixture cool after one hour of low boil; first in the ‘airlock’ and then in the fridge, until I had a firm layer of fat covering the top of my pot.

After first boil, a hard layer of dirty fat sits atop nasty dirty stinky chunky water

After first boil, a hard layer of dirty fat sits atop nasty dirty stinky chunky water

Step 2: Discard water and repeat with clean water
I pried the fat up and was able to lift it out with a spatula. Underneath was a nasty, smelly bit of brown water with chunks of meat (you vegetarians feel free to retch). I threw that in the compost and started over again. This time, the fat layer didn’t smell, there were no more chunks, but the water was a deep amber-brown and smelled horrid.

After the second boil, clean, low-odor fat

After the second boil, clean, low-odor fat

Firm fat layer removed from the second boil

Firm fat layer removed from the second boil

No more chunks, but the boil water under the fat is dark and stinky

No more chunks, but the boil water under the fat is dark and stinky

Step 3: Repeat until water is clean
The third time around, the water was nearly clear.  But there was a problem: the fat layer was getting progressively softer, to the point that I could no longer lift even chunks of the lard out with the spatula. What was I doing wrong?

Third boil water is 'clean', but fat (in background) is too soft!

Third boil water is ‘clean’, but fat (in background) is too soft!

I had been wondering about the salt, added ‘to help absorb smell’. No one said how much to add. Well, what does salt do? Maybe by making the water more dense it helped the fat float to the top? I wanted good separation, so I reasoned that if some salt was good, more was better.

After a fourth boil, with even more salt - super soft fat!

After a fourth boil, with even more salt – super soft fat!

When my fat was getting softer, not harder, I thought again. What else might the salt be doing? It breaks up the hydrogen bonds among water molecules. Could it be emulsifying the fat? Some inet searches turned up saltwater as a potential emulsifier of grease. Oops.

I re-boiled the bacon fat in water (no salt) several times, each time getting a more solid layer of fat. I stopped at ‘good enough’, with a nearly solid layer and very clean water. The fat layer, which had stopped smelling early on in the cleaning process, had reacquired some stink during the over-salting quilombo, but I decided to proceed. The fat no longer smelled of nasty old bacon fat – it now smelled like chicken stock. I could work with that.

Prior to this adventure, I have used a mixture of at least three (and up to six!) plant oils to make soap. It is a messy tedious process to prepare the oils – some are liquid, some solid, and each require precise weighing. By contrast, using bacon fat was simple. I just weighed my prepared patty, calculated the amount of lye and water I needed, and I was ready to start.

To calculate the amount of lye, multiply 0.1388 times your weight of fat. I had 710 g of fat, so would need 99 g of lye to completely convert the fat to soap. But I always superfat my soap; adding a bit less lye to a) ensure the lye is used up, b) make the soap more moisturizing. So I went with 85 g of lye. I dissolved this lye in twice as much water (170 g).

Cleaned bacon fat melting in soap pot

Cleaned bacon fat melting in soap pot

Soap Step 1: Melt the fat
You want the fat liquid, and warmed but not hot. For this recipe, the fat should be 88F.

Measuring the water and lye

Measuring the water and lye

Soap Step 2: Dissolve the lye in water
Wearing protective clothing (especially glasses), slowly add the lye to the water, stirring ( I use my stainless steel thermometer). The exothermic reaction generates a lot of heat, so cool the lye solution in a cold water bath.

Soap Step 3: Add the lye solution to the fat
When the lye solution and the fat are about 88F, slowly add the lye to the fat, stirring vigorously (but take care not to splash).

Soap Step 4: Stir until ‘trace’
You can use an immersion blender to speed things up at this point. I wanted to see how long it would take to trace, so I stirred by hand for 20 minutes. I can’t say I saw trace, but there was no sign of separation, the solution was noticeably thicker, and I had to go to dim sum. Next!

Soap Step 5: Add essential oils (optional)
I debated leaving the soap plain, to see if it really had no odor, but – what if it did? Plus, it’s always nice to have a pleasant-smelling soap. So I added a few drops of rosemary essential oil and stirred the solution a bit more.

Vitreous quality of freshly poured soap

Vitreous quality of freshly poured soap

Soap Step 6: Pour into prepared mould
For my ~2c of fat, I used a 10″x10″ box, lined with saran wrap. Wrap the box in old towels (in case of any leaks) and store somewhere warm. If soap dries too quickly a powdery lye film can form on top.

Several hours after pour, soap is matte and becoming firm

Several hours after pour, soap is matte and becoming firm

Soap Step 7: When soap is firm, cut into bars
Check the soap periodically over the next day. Cut it when it is the consistency of hard fudge. Overnight is usually as long as you want to wait.

Next morning, soap is firm enough to cut

Next morning, soap is firm enough to cut

Soap Step 8: Wait 2-6 weeks for your soap to cure before using it
Although the physical changes are rapid (soap is firm within a few days), the chemical process of saponification is more slow. Right now the soap is still very basic (high pH) and will burn your skin if you use it. This is because there is still lye in the soap. It will take several weeks before the lye has completely broken down the fatty acids into soap molecules. At this point, the lye will be completely used up and the soap will be composed of soap molecules, glycerin, and some residual fats. Soap can be ready after 2 weeks, but 4-6 weeks is a safer period.

In May, I will let you know how the soap performs.  So exciting!!

Lessons Learned:

  • Using bacon fat for soap is awesome
  • Most of the time spent cleaning the fat is waiting for it to harden
  • Use a small amount of salt (~1 T for 2 c of fat) for the first boil only
  • I am not sure lengthy boiling is necessary for subsequent steps
  • 2c of bacon grease makes about 12 bars of soap
  • I may never buy plant oils for soap again

UPDATE: The bacon soap was absolutely delicious on the skin – super soft without leaving a film. Unfortunately, the chicken stockish smell lingered – particularly in a warm shower. I found this a little…disappointing. So I re-milled the soap – grating the bars, melting them in water in a double boiler, dousing them with tea tree essential oil, and re-pouring. I am still waiting for the soap to dry (I added too much water), but will report back when I use the first bar.

UPDATE 2: Still stinky. Like burned chicken stock. I wonder if rancidity was a problem? I had been storing my grease on the counter and certainly it would have been rancid. So I am starting over, storing grease in a container in the freezer, just in case. Will try again when I have enough grease to start the cleaning…

UPDATE 3: Still waiting to accumulate enough grease.  My breakfast cooker has gone off bacon for a while now, prefering some veggie patties with his eggs.  As he is the cook, I can hardly complain.  MEANWHILE, when I am ready, I will try this method of cleaning the grease.  Hopefully it will be less stinky.

Posted in DIY, homemade, homemade soap, personal care product, Scientific, soap, Sustainability, update | Tagged , , , | 31 Comments

Chicken Grazing Frames!

Since locking our chickens up in 2010, I have been struggling to find a solution to the lack of greens in the chicken yard. A few weeks ago I found a post on grazing frames for sustainable chicken greens. OMG: The Answer!

I was so excited about it I could hardly contain my eagerness to get out there and get it done. Similar to my grazing fence, the hens can nibble the greens, but cannot dig into the roots. Voila – a sustainable nutritious ground cover for the chicken yard! Last week I finally had time to build one. A simple task with 2×4 lumber and hardware cloth, fastened with screws and staples. Such a beautifully simple idea.

Bare grazing frame

Bare grazing frame

1/2" hardware cloth over grazing frame

1/2″ hardware cloth over grazing frame

The Golden Chicken exploring the grazing frame

The Golden Chicken trying to get to the grass seed

Blanca, The White Queen, takes a look

Blanca, The White Queen, takes a look

Eventually a grass mat will beneath the frame, will mound up, and productivity will falter. At that time, I can simply (re)move the frame, let the chickens do their worst, and the ground will be freshly tilled in no time. Repeat.

Unfortunately I must first wait for the grass to grow…

Posted in chickens, DIY, food fence, grazing, Sustainability | Tagged | Leave a comment

Olla Class – Registration Now Open

If you were interested when I posted the olla class a month ago, you can now register for it online:

Screen Shot 2013-02-19 at 9.23.08 AM

Register for olla handbuilding class at SSCC

Posted in DIY, education, olla | Leave a comment